At the beginning of 2020, my husband and I embarked on a 7-day road trip through Central Europe. After spending 2 days in Prague, 2 days in Budapest, and 1 day in Hallstatt, Austria, we headed back into the Czech Republic to spend 1 night in Cesky Krumlov before driving back to Prague and completing our journey. Our drive from Hallstatt to Cesky Krumlov took about 3 hours. To get to Cesky Krumlov from Prague by car takes about 2 hours. Getting to Cesky Krumlov from Prague by train takes about 3-4 hours.
Cesky Krumlov is quaint and charming with a gorgeous skyline dominated by The Cesky Krumlov Castle and orange capped Baroque buildings. Nestled along the winding Vltava River, its cobble stone streets and adorable shops will make you feel like you’re in a Bohemian fairytale. The medieval city center in Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and The Cesky Krumlov Castle is Czech Republic’s second largest castle after the one in Prague. Most uniquely, The Cesky Krumlov Castle is guarded by live bears as a continuation of a tradition started in the 16th century by the Rosenberg family.
Whether you are interested in the history of Cesky Krumlov and want to explore its castle and museum, or you simply wish to wander the cobblestone streets of this fairytale town, Cesky Krumlov is a must-see when in the Czech Republic. If you’re planning a trip to Prague, I highly recommend adding a day trip to Cesky Krumlov. Here’s your guide to the cutest European town you’ve never heard of: Cesky Krumlov.
Where to stay in Cesky Krumlov?
I can’t speak highly enough of Hotel Růže. This 5-star hotel was not only gorgeous but extremely comfortable, affordable, and teeming with history.
The hotel was built as a Jesuit College in 1584 by William of Rosenburg. When the Jesuit order was cancelled by Pope Clement XIV in 1773, the College was transferred to military administration. The building was used as military barracks until 1887. In 1889, the building was transformed into a hotel that survived for a short while before being occupied by German Nazis in 1938.
The building was restored in 1999 after being abandoned for 50 years. Today the building is a 5-star hotel within walking distance to everything in town. It is, in my opinion, the best hotel in Cesky Krumlov.
The hotel is across the Vltava River from the Cesky Krumlov Castle, with views of orange capped Baroque style buildings and the castle tower from the rooms. The walls of the hallways are covered in gorgeous paintings. The interior is elegant with vaulted ceilings, period décor, and antique furnishings plus the hotel provides a delicious breakfast spread. In addition to its stunning interior and incredible location, the hotel has something I have never experienced in any other hotel room anywhere in the world. The toilets in the room are decorated as mini thrones! You heard that right. Built around the toilet seat, is an ornate, wooden throne to make all of your whimsical bathroom dreams come true! Check out the photo of it below. I was tickled.
I highly recommend staying at Hotel Růže on your trip to Cesky Krumlov. The hotel was around $100 per night, which is an absolute steal for the luxury and incredible location.
Where to eat in Cesky Krumlov?
We arrived in town at night and walked to dinner. We walked through cobblestone streets and grabbed food at Le Jardin, an upscale European restaurant. Kyle got the duck leg confit, and I opted for something less traditional and got the lasagna. Both were delicious! The restaurant was lovely, and the wine was great.
Check out Krčma Šatlava for traditional Czech fare.
What to do in Cesky Krumlov?
Visit the Cesky Krumlov Castle
After our lovely breakfast in the hotel, we walked through the town and toured the castle. The Cesky Krumlov Castle is one of the most spectacular and well-preserved castles in the Czech Republic. It is the second largest castle in the Czech Republic after the Prague Castle. Originally built in the 13th century as a Gothic fortress by the Vítkovci family, it was then transformed by later families to include more Renaissance and Baroque architectural styles. Today, it showcases a mix of architectural styles, reflecting its long and storied past.
The castle is situated on a hill and offers amazing views of the river and town below. I recommend climbing up the tower for the most incredible view.
You can also tour the Baroque Castle Theater to enjoy original stage sets, costumes, and machinery dating back to the 18th century.
This castle is impressive for so many reasons. For one, its moat is filled with real bears instead of water. You heard that right. Bears have been kept outside the castle since the 16th century and while most of the time they’re eating or napping, I still personally wouldn’t take my chances trying to cross that moat. Thankfully, the bears won’t stop you from visiting the castle these days. A visit to any of the 5 courtyards or the Castle gardens is free. You’ll need to purchase a ticket to enter the theater or tower and this costs about 20 euro.
Explore Cesky Krumlov’s History in Movies
One fun thing to know about Cesky Krumlov, is that it has served as the film location for several different movies over the years. The Illusionist (2006) starring Edward Norton, Jessica Biel, and Paul Giamatti, used Cesky Krumlov as a stand-in for 19th-century Vienna. The Cesky Krumlov Castle and its Baroque Theatre were featured.
Both Hostel (2005) and Underworld: Blood Wars (2016) include scenes filmed in Cesky Krumlov. While the town is picturesque and fairytale like during bright sunny days, its gothic architecture and empty cobblestone streets make it a bit eerie at night. I can see why it was chosen for scenes in these creepy movies.
Wander the Cobblestone Streets and Explore Shops
My favorite thing to do in Cesky Krumlov is simply wander through the gorgeous town and its cobble stone streets. We popped into several small shops and enjoyed handcrafted goods, souvenirs, and local artwork. Some of the best shops to visit are:
- Souvenir shops- stop into one of the several souvenir shops selling handcrafted wooden toys, ceramic goods, and medieval-style souvenirs
- Marionette Shops – Cesky Krumlov is famous for handmade wooden puppets and marionettes, often inspired by fairy tales and Czech folklore
- Rosmarinus – A small herbal apothecary selling natural teas, essential oils, and traditional remedies
- Local Honey & Mead Shops – Several stores sell Bohemian honey, mead (honey wine), and herbal liqueurs, great for a local taste of the region.
- Bon Bon Chocolate Shop
Visit the Egon Schiele Art Museum
- open 7 days per week, 10am-6pm
- Entry is about $5 USD (120 CZK) per person
Enjoy a Meal or a Beer by the Vltava River
After exploring so many incredible shops in town, we decided to grab a beer next to the river at Restaurace Na Ostrově which has an incredible outdoor patio on the river. I recommend drinking a Pilsner Lager from Pilsnser Urquell Brewery to get the full authentic Czech experience.
After our relaxing time by the Vltava River, we felt we had quite fully explored the town and were ready to hit the road back to Prague.
I highly recommend a day in Cesky Krumlov. The town was so affordable and extremely charming. Cesky Krumlov is small and there is no need to stay for more than one day or night. I recommend either driving or taking the 2-hour bus ride into town from Prague.
Take a few minutes and learn a few basic Czech phrases before your trip. See below for some of the most helpful Czech words and phrases.
Basic Czech Phrases
It will be helpful to learn these basic Czech phrases:
- Prosím (pro-seem) = Possibly the most useful word in Czech. It means: 1) Please, 2) Here you are, 3) You’re welcome, 4) What did you say?, 5) I’ll have … and can generally be used in times of doubt.
- Děkuju (dyeh-kooyoo) = Thank you
- Ano (ah-noh) = Yes. Ano is often shortened to no, sometimes resulting in cross-language confusion.
- Ne (neh) = No. Fairly straightforward and direct.
- Dobrý den (dob-ree den) = Hello, Good afternoon.
- Nashledanou (nus-hle-dah-no) Good bye.
- Ahoj (ah-hoy) = Hi. or Bye. Much like Aloha this word can be used both when meeting and leaving. You will often hear Czechs saying hi while waving you goodbye. Čau is another informal equivalent.
- Kde je toaleta? (kdeh yeh toh-ah-le-ta) Where is the bathroom?
- Kolik to stojí? (koh-leek toh stoh-yee) How much is it?
- Na’zdravi! (cheers!)
Hope you enjoyed! Na’zdravi! (cheers!)
Read about the other stops on our Eastern European Road Trip: Prague, Budapest, and Hallstatt.